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Larry Jenkins, I have a 17 GMC Sierra 6.2 SLT, I got 25 to 27mpg regularly with 93 gas and cylinder deactivation. Now I get 24 to 26 with deactivation locked out and full power. Why would GM ever produce such problems with such little to gain. I drive the same 320 mile trip every two weeks and drive the same route and full tank. Verified over hundreds of trips, makes no sense
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My 2012 Silverado 5.3L just did the same thing as your Tahoe Brian. Accept i only have 60K on my truck and it hasnt recovered. I tried the trans fluid in the oil. Then changed the oil. Then had to drive the truck back to Tampa from Cheifland Fl. This happened on a camping trip with my kids last friday night. Now i have my mechanic trying to follow a YouTube video I saw with a guy and a rod and a hammer. Hopefully he can free up the stuck/collapsed lifter. Then I guess I have to spend a bunch of money and get the delete kit. This really sucks. I loved this rtuck until this happened!!
My 2013 GMC Yukon XL 6.2L is currently having a failed lifer replaced. It is being covered under warranty since I only have 72,000 miles on it. Since it is not costing me anything out of pocket, I did not go with the Delete Kit (did not want to spend the money). Once I get it back, could I install the Disabler safely. I would rather stay a V8 full time than deal with AFM issues in the future.
I ave noticed the point about excess oil spray. My point is that the engine likely on uses dod a small percentage of the time so can not really imagine that the delete causes any more issue than normal which may be the high oil consumption but do all of these engines with dod consume a lot of oil? I was looking at the 08 escalade hybrid with dod on its 6.0 so wondering if the delete would contribute to the high oil consumption and therefore would adding the deflector be a good idea. It seems to me that the high volume oil pump should not hopefully cause premature wear but if it is pushing more oil through the heads than I guess the valve stem seals have more work to do. Would really appreciate your comments on this point as really interested in an 07/08 escalade without or an 09 hybrid with dod. thx Brian
I can tell you for the past 2 years I changed out my LC9 5.3L fully synthetic oil every 3,000, even though Mobile Oil claims 10,000 miles or more. I have read synthetic isnt good for AFM lifters. Any truth to that?
Hi. Sylinder one lost compression on my 09 5,3. No movement on the rocker arms. Replaced all lifters. No it runs fine on sylinder one but not on 6 or 7!!! Pulled the inntake and replaced valleypan With all the solenoids. Did not help. Pulled right valve cover an rockers on syl 6 dont move. Well, they move a couple of times after startup thats all.Asume its the same on syl 7 on the other side.Disconected the Connector to the solenoids, no difference. Seems my oil pressure sensor is bad, are showing the same oil pressure at all times, even when it dosnt run.Dont know it that fault was there before i replaced the lifters. (Bought car 1 day before lifter died!) I asume low oil pressure cant make some of the DOD lifters to malfunction? All New lifters were from AC delco. Can they be faulty? Its not possible to install them wrong? They layed over night in engine oil before instalation. Thankfull for any ideeas!
My question on a 2007 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 AFMReplaced all 16 lifters due to collapsed lifter on CYl #4.Also replaced push rods rocker arms and rocker plate guide because if wore push rod and crack in rocker arm.Put everything back together proper torque, gakets, valve seals, etc.
Battery was unplugged for a week..Really could use some pointers. 190k on the motor always ran AMSOIL full synth since new. Had similar problems under warranty, no telling what they rigged me up with at the dealer. HELP
I have a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3. There has been a lifter noise since I bought the truck 1 year ago. I have been assuming this is just a slow to pump-up lifter or lifters. I quites down to nothing after running for about a minute. I wii be using this truck to haul a camper for full time RV living and am thinking of a tuner to shut off AFM and maximize performance and economy. Most of all, my concern is reliability. I would appreciate any feedback.
Your transmission protected by a covering known as the bell housing. When the bell housing is damaged by flying debris or rough driving, you could experience sudden and severe transmission fluid loss. Large stones and rocks will fly up and strike the bell housing, which can cause the transmission to crack and leak fluid.
A burst in the hose line will cause the hydraulic fluid to leak, making it harder to turn the steering wheel. Inspect the hoses and other system components regularly. Hoses can deteriorate after years of use or become cracked and dry. Look for cracks and wear. Lightly squeeze the hoses to locate weak areas that will feel soft or spongy.
Break-in oil should also only be used for initial engine run-in and then changed along with the filter and replaced with the engine oil you intend to run. On a street engine, this would mean less than 100 miles. Changing the break-in oil removes the impurities that will be present in the oil from the break-in period. This is especially true with race engines that use less restrictive filters. JE also recommends avoiding synthetics during break-in in order to take full advantage of establishing wear patterns. Synthetics sometimes can do too good a job of reducing friction so that the rings cannot seat properly.
Sleeving an engine block is done for two primary reasons. The first is to repair a cracked or otherwise damaged cylinder to save the block. The second is increasing displacement by allowing for a larger bore size. In either case, the sleeving process must be performed carefully to ensure satisfactory results. Careful measurements are required
Disaster is exactly what often gets dispelled towards the Mercedes-Benz, because these same bushings have been known to crack open unexpectedly, leaking out all the fluid inside it and spilling it internally in the car. Losing this fluid usually leads to a bumpier drive and potential tire wear.
The overexposure to heat causes the insulation to crack open. It's hard to take precautions to protect the car in states that are hot all year round. Maybe buying a Benz in a hot area is just a bad idea?!
Excessive transmission heat is responsible for the start of many transmission problems including; ruptured seals, cracked gears, slipping transmission bands, failed bearings, inoperable solenoids, and delayed clutch engagement. You name the part, and too much heat can cause it to break.
15. Horrible noise in 4th and feels like the brakes are on: overrun clutches are applying due to a cracked or leaking forward piston. Overrun clutches will be worn out after 30 seconds of this behavior. Car can be safely driven in D. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.
24. Fluid leak out of the front of trans where the converter connects; partial or full loss of movement: Front pump bushing walked out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. May have to replace converter also if hub is scored. Note that a leaking front seal usually means the bushing is walking out.
Even though the Cessna 206H is certified as a six-seat aircraft in its country of origin, the Canadian aviation regulator, Transport Canada has certified it to carry only five people in Canada. This is due to concerns about passenger egress through the rear clamshell door with the flaps extended. Cessna addressed one part of this problem early on, after a flight-test aircraft was damaged when the pilot extended the flaps while taxiing, and his passenger had the clamshell door open (for ventilation; it was a hot summer day). A switch was added to the flap actuation circuit which disabled the flaps when the doors were open. The other part of the problem is that if the flaps are already down, the passenger must perform the complicated procedure of opening the front part as far as possible (about 8 in (20 cm)) then open the rear door and release the spring-loaded rear door handle so it retracts out of the way. This then gives enough clearance to open the rear part of the door fully for egress.[4]
Install the pan/filter assembly (for plastic oil pans) or the filter (for metal pans) by lubricating the filter o-ring with trans fluid. The filter should slide easily into place. If it will not fully seat into position, do not force it. There may be an issue with the sealing o-ring. It is critical to make sure that the filter neck seals to the transmission properly to ensure proper fluid pressure in the transmission. Poor shifting performance or transmission damage can occur if this step is not done correctly. Once the filter is secured, begin to secure the pan with new replacement bolts. The original bolts corrode quite a bit, and it is not recommended to reuse them. I recommend threading all bolts in by hand. You will need to follow the torquing procedure and torque pattern below to ensure the pan gasket is equally pressed against the bottom of the transmission. Make sure you have a good in-lb torque wrench for this step.
The next step is to read the fault codes from the transmission module, also known as the electronic gearbox (EGS). You will need a BMW scanner to retrieve fault codes from BMW modules. You can perform a full system scan with a scanner such as YOUCANIC Full System Scanner that can read BMW fault codes.
The logic behind this is that the sprag gyrates in an unsafe fashion that can cause it to crack or come apart. Bolt-In Sprags prevent this concern, and are standard on products like the Project Carbon 48RE w/ Billet Torque Converter. This is because we wholly anticipate customers with products such as that to be using them for their intended purpose, and are built and up-armored accordingly. 2ff7e9595c
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